Thursday:
i did soooooooo much better today with surfing.. conditions were perfect and the ratio of standing and falling was the opposite!!!!
i fell maybe 2-3 times.. and stood up and rode the wave like 10 times or something... soooo much fun today.. gonna try and surf like 2 times a week.. :)
MORE NOTES from the Saturday after Thursday, above:
Went again today!! so 3 times so far.. started learning to paddle (before, the teacher had been pushing us to catch the wave)... it's funny because before last saturday, i really didn't like going to the beach much.. i dont like how sandy it is (hehe) and the water is so salty, wet, (who knew!!) and sticky... and the idea of surfing seemed like such a hassle.. dealing with the wetsuit, and the board.... but now none of that phases me... i want to go as many times as it fits in my schedule.. i was even, for a split second, contemplating how I could move to Huanchaco (the closest beach, 15 mins away)... but alas.. no.. i'm happy where i'm living.. and i'm happy going twice a week (one lesson on my own or with housemates and one lesson with the SKIP kids)... and perhaps a lesson on a free saturday... I would go more often, but money does not grow on trees... (however, it is significantly more affordable than in the states)
I still don't like too much sun (soon i will be one large freckle)... but i can tolerate it for the surfing....
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